Hand to hand with a Janissary (Gianitsaros) in Naoussa

Hand to hand with a Janissary (Gianitsaros) in Naoussa

  Carnival is celebrated everywhere across Greece, but it’s only in Naoussa that the Janissaries dance along the “patinada” rhythm. And it is this sound of the “zourna” approaching slowly and getting louder and louder as it gets closer, until you feel the tabor accompanying him pounding inside you, like a second heart! At that moment, the group of the “Janissaries and Boules” passes by you! Young and old Janissaries outcross their swords dancing “patinada”, a slow, sad song. The musicians are the last to follow the group, along with the leader of the group who checks everything around and instructs which songs will be played. If you don’t hear the zourna playing, you haven’t experienced the carnival in Naoussa!

  The custom roots back in the years of the Ottoman occupation and was interrupted only during the war (1940-1954). It was revived thanks to the love and tenacity of some people that despite the difficulties of those years were able to set it up again. It’s a purely traditional custom that incorporates in its ritual all the history of the place and its inhabitants. The Janissary (Gianitsaros in Greek) is dressed early and when the plaintive sound of the zourna is heard in the distance, he comes to the window or on the balcony and shakes his body two or three times to greet them. He greets his family goodbye by hopping three times on his feet, crosses his fingers on the doorstep and joins the group that came to get him. They gather all, from the youngest to the oldest and finally the leader. They wait for the Boulla (a man dressed as a bride) to respectfully hand kiss the family and join the group that heads to the Town Hall to ask for permission from the Mayor to dance on the town’s streets. Everything has its special meaning here. Every move, every song to be played on a specific moment during the strictly defined route!

 “Town Hall” – “Triodi” – “Kammena” – “Pouliana” – “Batania” – “Stoa” – “Agios Georgios “– “Alonia”: it’s the historic, strictly kept track of the dancing groups, followed by many people until they come to the old “Alonia” district, where they take off their masks, eat, drink and dance along with the people.

  This takes place on both Sundays of the Carnival season. On Shrove Monday as well, only then they do not have their masks on. When it is time of parting, they make a circle, put the organist in the middle, they hit their swords on earth and promise to meet on Sunday of Orthodoxy in “Spilaio” area, for the last celebration that will close period of Carnival in Naoussa.

 The custom of “Janissaries and Boules” coexists nowadays with modern satirical carnivals, preparing all year through to get on their improvised chariots and satirize modern politics and affairs, wandering around the town’s streets.   Today not so many in number and so great in originality than my memory recalls from the past, when we could hear the zournas playing beneath our window before dawn, inviting us to masquerade quickly and follow the group that woke us up! Drinking and dancing all night long, door to door, waking up everyone!

 The custom is kept alive and inalterable up to our days. It is a unique tradition, so it fills the city streets with hundreds of people on these days.

 

On the cobbled streets of Veria’s neighdourhoods

On the cobbled streets of Veria’s neighdourhoods

Weekend excursions offer rest and mental uplift! Just what we need in order to “get by” until the next trip.

Here’s what we suggest: Discover Veria! Plus the surrounding area (it includes many-many more options!). We live in Veria! So we can be your guides around our city!

The “Sarafoglou” mansion   In short, Veria is one of the oldest cities in Greece, with references to Thucydides and a very important city (the second largest after Pella) of the kingdom of Philip II of Macedon. It was conquered by the Romans and Apostle Paul has preached here to the Jewish and Greek communities of the city in AD 50/51 or 54/55. Its rich history is eminent in the numerous sights around the city. Built at the foot of Vermio, it is known for its traditional architecture in its old neighborhoods as well as the numerous Byzantine and post-Byzantine churches.

What is worth seeing in the city

  Start from the picturesque, old neighborhoods, on both banks of “Tripotamos” river that crosses the city: stroll on the cobbled streets of “Kyriotissa”, the Christian Quarter of the city, with the renovated, as well as new houses with enclosed balconies, built along the architecture of the traditional ones. The “Sarafoglou” mansion (mid 18th c.), a replica of Veria’s traditional houses, has been restored and functions as a folklore museum which is, unfortunately, closed to the public, except on the occasion of a few summer events that take place there! Behind the tall fences and among the houses of this quarte, Byzantine and post-Byzantine churches pop up every so and then.

Raktivan Square Apostle Paul’s Altar

Mendrese Mosque   Take the way up towards the “Clock Square” (or “Raktivan Square”). The square is dominated by the exquisite building of the former Courthouse, built in the years when the city was under the Ottoman regime. It was here that the Turkish commander handed over Veria to the Greek army on 16 October 1912. Built in the same period, the school building nearby framed by “Mendrese Mosque” on one side and “Apostle Paul’s Altar” on the other! It’s the altar where Apostle Paul preached in front of the city’s people and today is visited by large numbers of pilgrims.

  Move on to the Jewish Quarter in “Barbouta” area, where stately mansions and folk houses stand right over the steep bank of the river. Take the road at the right of the Clock Square (as you look at the old courthouse) and pass through the arcade in the open courtyard of the district with the paved lanes. In the heart of the Jewish District, stands the stone-built Synagogue, built in line with the houses, the most ancient synagogue in the Northern Greece, with elaborate interior decoration; impressive wood carved ceilings and vivid mosaic tiles. The Mikveh (a sacred bath) is still preserved in it. Nowadays, the Synagogue is closed , however it occasionally opens for Jews who travel to Veria to pray. There are two or three beautiful hotels in this neighborhood, in full harmony with the environment. Just before the bridge, three magnificent restored mansions, painted with striking colors, boast the green background of the riverside flora. These are: the “Tsartsani mansion” (built in 1872, inhabited once by the family of a Jewish high rank priest). It houses the “Olganos” (a municipal service) today. Right next to it is the “Anastasiou” mansion (house of Rabbi once), the last home of the Jewish quarter. Opposite raise your head and admire the impressive “Becca” Mansion, decorated with baroque and rococo style authentic frescoes, preserved in excellent condition! It once belonged to a wealthy merchant of Jewish origin. Today it’s a municipal property.

the Jewish Quarter in “Barbouta” area the stone-built Synagogue

the historical plane tree  Walk along the “Havre” bridge and turn right ways. Walk until “Karachmet” bridge, the only typical example of the city’s stone bridges preserved until today! (has unfortunately lost its original stone railing). Cross it and go up the alley passing by the “12 Grada” café/restaurant (http://www.12grada.gr/ ). You can catch your breath here, have a cup of coffee or a taste of the delicacies it offers!!!

  Going up the road, on your left, is the district of Panagia Dexia with the homonymous church. Narrow streets and old houses by the river, faithfully conveying the feeling of that era when it was full of life, devoid of care, though, nowadays. Straight ahead you reach “Kentrikis Street”, once the old market of the town.And the historical plane tree of 700 years of age!

 At that point, you will have reached the Old Cathedral – the Chounkiar Mosque (11th c.) as it was called when the ottomans added the minaret. It’s by far the most important among the dozens of Byzantine and post-Byzantine churches that gave the city its nickname, “Little Jerusalem” and it opened to the public again last year, after many years of restoration works. An architectural masterpiece and a “must” visit!

the Old Cathedral

 Mitropoleos Street The numerous mosques (14) in the city are remnants of the Turkish domination. Many were used as public Turkish baths. The city still maintains some buildings like the “Twin Baths of Sinan of Alatas” 14th century( soon to be restored). From the Old Cathedral, head to the city’s commercial center, a pedestrian complex with a large number of shops and many cafés / bars (many offer snacks as well) and some taverns.

  Mitropoleos Street, with its cobbled sections of Roman road, is leading you down to the city center, passing by the impressive building of the City Hall. The 110 year old building, functioned as a male high school until 1996 (just below it is an underground parking station that relieves the city’s parking problem). Behind it, the award-winning Public Library of Veria. Further on, “Elias” Street leads to “Elias’s Square” (all time classic rendezvous point of the city), with magnificent views at Imathia’s plain (the people refer to the spot as “the coast”). Have your coffee here, especially in summertime ! Overlooking the city or the plains. Your choice!

the City Hall

  Various shops and many cafés are on the way. Take a beautiful walk on the “coastal” Anixeos street starting from “Elias’s Square” and heading north to the temple and the park of Ag.Anargyroi and the renovated Archaeological Museum (Anoixeos Street 27, tel. 23310 24972). In its courtyard, the dominating marble head of Medusa (2nd AD c.), of supernatural dimensions catches your eye! The head was built in the north wall of the city gate to scare their enemies. In its rooms take a travel back -in -the –big- city’s past, from the Stone Age up to the Ottoman period – (in the museum’s courtyard you’ll see exposed columns, column bases, architraves, inscriptions, etc.). Along the way, admire the well-preserved “Vlachogianni” Mansion (a neoclassical building).

the Byzantine Museum the Archaeological Museum

the park of Ag.Anargyroi  If you go past “Elias Square”, and take the uphill road it will lead you to the Byzantine Museum (Thomaidou Street 26, tel. 25 847) which is housed in a restored watermill “the mill of Mark” as it’s called, a 1911 building. It is built right next to the ancient fortifications, the boundaries of the conservation area of Kyriotissa. Next to it, onto the ancient walls of the city, you can’t fail to notice the characteristic ottoman houses that have been restored as close to the original as possible and adorned with striking colors!

  Do not leave without tasting the special flavors of the city: the famous “Revani” which if you don’t happen to buy at “Chochliourou” (Revani of Veria since 1886/ near St. Antonios church) or another patisserie, you will surely taste as a treat at a restaurant or tavern. Buy excellent local products like fruit marmalade and “halva” of Kandylas. Don’t miss “Lido’s” pudding and profiterole or the almond pastry in one of the oldest patisseries in Veria, “Seremetas”. Traditional dishes you have to taste: “fasoulontavas” (baked giant beans), pork with leek, fried mpatsios (salty cheese) and pies. You’ll drink good local wine and “tsipouro” in the area of course!

  It’s guaranteed that you’ll enjoy your coffee in “Vatrachos” (the Frog). And its divine burgers! And the crepes! (Karakosti 13, 23310 20282, https://www.facebook.com/vatraxos.gr/ ). “Le petit” in Vikela str is a good choice for its excellent coffee, friendly service (a tiny shop but you can sit outside). Alternatively, “Rodi” (Pomegranate) in the pedestrianized market and “Kochlias” also. Nice for a drink in the evening!

WHEN YOU ARE HUNGRY:

Taverns / restaurants:

“Ladokola” Vikela 12 2331061961 (center / Fri / Sat night live music)

“Vergiotiko” Thomaidou 2 2331074133 (next to the Byzantine Museum)

More gourmet dishes at: «Beluga» (Elias 14 2331072982)

12 Grada”, (11a Dimosthenous str., http://www.12grada.gr / 2331100112)

«Masna Restaurant», (Elias Square)

  • During your getaway in Veria, you can also visit the Archaeological Site of St. Patapios Church , which was the center of the ancient and the early Christian Veria. The church of St. Anthony, as well.

And a little further

  • Grab the opportunity to visit the Monastery of Panagia Sumela, hosting the icon of Virgin Sumela (it’s said it‘s been painted by Luke the evangelist) from the Monastery of Panagia Sumela in Trabzon. The monastery is situated above the village of Kastania and was built by refugees of Pondos, in 1951. The festivities in mid-August here gather huge crowds. (18 km)
  • Visit Vergina (15 km far), with the royal tombs of ancient Aigai kings. If you haven’t been there before, you will be amazed!
  • Winter or summer, mount Vermio and the ski resort of Seli is within some minutes drive.(24 km) There are guestrooms and taverns there with delicious meat dishes.Good meat is another plus of the region.

Read more about the churches here: http://en.discoververia.gr/mikri-ierousalim-2/

“Hooked up in pleasure”

“Hooked up in pleasure”

Ano Poroia  “Agkistro” (= hook ), a small village close to the borders with Bulgaria, was picked as a relaxing destination during our Christmas holidays and it very much justified our choice! So here are all the secrets so that you can enjoy what it offers!

  So we set off from Veria, on the second day of Christmas, choosing to follow the road to Kerkini and Ano Poroia. On our stop at Poroia we came upon the village’s Christmas feast: Every year, they organize the “Gournosfagia” ( slaughtering of pigs) at the main square. Smoked piglets, frying pancakes, crumbs and” tsipouro” are treated to visitors accompanied by music of course! We drank our coffee at “Nastou View Hotel” at the highest point of the village, enjoying a wonderful view of Lake Kerkini.

  A 40 ‘drive led us to “Agkistro” through Promachonas. “Agkistro” is the northernmost village of the prefecture of Serres, built at the foot of the homonymous mountain (Mount Agkistro or “Tsigelli” at an altitude of 1,294m), near the well-known “Fort Rupel”, right next to the border line with neighboring Bulgaria. In the “Wooden Village”, “Nastou View Hotel”Our hotel welcomed us with smiles and our good mood was enhanced when we got into the warm rooms (built with wooden trunks), fireplaces and exposed roofs. An intimidating environment especially when it got dark showing up the impressive Christmas decoration!

  Time to eat, and since we came all the way, we had to try the homegrown trout cooked on charcoal. The waters of “Strymonas” river feed the village’s fish farm (you can navigate through the tanks), which also has a tavern that is open since 1977 (PEKAM). In its vintage decor, as if the we were transferred back in time, we enjoyed our fresh fish! The smoked trout was very delicious!

Wooden village Hotel

Wooden village Hotel Wooden village Hotel

"Eight" café /bar  After coffee and chatting in the main building of “Wooden Village”, Antonia, the polite receptionist, fully enlightened us about the region! In the evening we went to the “Eight” café /bar of “Paroraia” Boutique Hotel . A wonderful place with cozy atmosphere and fine music! A must! We spent several hours of our 2day vacations on its sofas, around the fireplace enjoying our coffee, tea or drink!

Second Day: Morning walk in the village and visit to “Fort Rupel”

stone Byzantine tower  On our walk, we came by the square which is dominated by the stone, Byzantine tower, which was used as a prison or even as a place of execution during the Ottoman domination. Today it is just a clock, depicting the local architecture.

  Following the signs from “Promachonas” (14km away), we drove to the “Fort Rupel”, incident to the resistance and heroism of the Greeks during the war with the Germans. It was never occupied, but was surrendered after the capitulation to the Germans on 10/4/1941. The fortress today is accessible (free of charge), daily from 9.00 to 13.00 (entrance accepted until 12.30). The tour includes first a brief presentation of the external space, a brief analysis of the military connections in this area at that time, and finally a visit into the “deep” land with the shelters, blockhouses and endless underground galleries. Impressive!

Fort Rupel

 Fort Rupel   Fort Rupel

"The hamam" “Agkistro” and the “hamam”(Turkish word for the steam bath- the contemporary spa) are absolutely connected to each other! A little further below the “Wooden Village” are the “hamams” of the village. The Byzantine hamam, the oldest Turkish bath, dates back to 950 AD. And is characterized as a real monument. In recent years, it has been expanded, utilized and framed by additional modern halls and a community hotel (“Hamam”,hamamagistro.gr, tel. 2323041420). It is built right next to the Byzantine hamam. Upon appointment (make sure to book it earlier in the day), you can enjoy your steam bath in a mysterious atmosphere: from the surrounding hot springs there is a steady flow of hot water at 37-38 ° C creating dense water vapor. One can see the dim light of candles (electricity does not exist in the old hamam, but there are newly built as well). The thermal waters spring through the rocks of Mount Agkistro and, as they travel to the surface of the earth, acquire the metallic components, which are mainly to be credited for their healing properties. The benefits of using the hamam include, among others, the relief of musculoskeletal pain, relaxation of the muscles and improvement of skin conditions. The odorless water effectively releases the toxins from the body and embellishes the skin. The hot springs of Agkistro are considered among the best in Europe, and are open for 365 days, 24 hours a day. Just take with you a swimsuit, a towel, slippers and a cap if it’s winter) !!!

"Don Pablo"  Two days are not enough to try the village taverns. We ate tasty zea pasta in “Don Pablo” but we did not get to taste the venison and other dishes of “Kyra Maria” (tel: 2323041144) and the kitchen of “Wooden Village”, for which we heard great comments! Check out the page: http://www.agistro.com/

 “Agkistro Action”, the first Alternative Tourism Office in Greece, organizes tours at the decommissioned northern fortifications (Fortresses Line of Metaxas). At the same time, “Agkistro Action” organizes activities in nature (cycling, mountaineering, archery, kayaking, Fliyng fox, etc.). A very good choice! Get detailed information on their highly organized website: www.agkistroaction.gr or call (tel. 2323043033 & 6980138846)

 If you would like to bring home with you some local products visit the “Traditional Product Shop”, just before entering the village (tel. 2323041210 & 6974458809). We , on the other hand drove up to “Irakleia” (20 ‘) to get the original “Tzoumagias sausages”! (In Coco)

 We bid farewell to Agkistro and the people we met there, full of expectations for our next visit! Why not have come back here in spring!

The title ” Hooked up in pleasure” was “stolen” from the name of the homonymous cafe in the village! We loved it!

 AgkistroMORE ADOUT THE VILLAGE

 The beginning of the history of the village is lost in the depths of the ages. During the reign of Philip II of Macedonia, in the 4th century BC, iron and gold mines of Mount Agkistro, were providing valuable material, along with the mines of Pangaio, to the campaign of Alexander the Great in Asia. This era is also marked by the discovery of the warm waters that flow from the mountains, resulting in a strong human presence in the area for the centuries to come. The stone bath dates back to the Byzantine era, as well as the tower in the center of the village, which served as a clock in the 14th century. During the Ottoman domination the village was called “Tsigelli”, with the bey (Turkish ruler) of the region and its harem enjoying the warm waters of the bath, as the monument was the private hamam.

 Agkistro has suffered severe disasters in all the difficult moments of modern history (Balkan Wars, World War I, World War II, and Civil War). Due to its particular geopolitical position, is has been a militarized zone for many years. At present there are about 400 residents in the village who are mainly engaged in agriculture, livestock, beekeeping, logging, and tourism.

 In the summer they organize the three-day cultural festival “Without Frontiers” (1st week in August) with concerts by popular Greek artists, dance groups and good local food, while on the third day, there is a River Party at the Mills

ABOUT THE HAMAM water temperature 37-38 ° C

 We enter the hamam “prive”, by appointment, for half an hour or for an hour or even more if we want. We pay € 6.00 per person for half an hour (i.e. if we are a company of 4 people and we want the steam bath to ourselves for 1 hour, then we will pay a total of 40 €). The water is poured into a pool of 3×3 meters and depth of 1.20 m. At the peak hours it is difficult to find a free steam bath, so many people are even more comfortable in the post-hours! Attention: To the Byzantine Hamam priority is given to the residents of the “Hamam Hotel” and to those who stay overnight at the village. If it is winter, make sure you are warmly equipped because the new hamams are outside the hotel, so you have to go out and walk to the building or the car!

 You can also get a massage. Ask for the services at “Hamam Hotel”

TIPS:

Distance

– Agkistro – Thessaloniki : 122 km

– Agkistro – Serres : 50 km

– Agkistro – Veroia: 191 km

– Agkistro – Rupel: 16 km, Agistro – Poroia: 50 km

Download the guide http://www.agistro.com/images/maps/Guide_FINAL.pdf

Keep in your mobile phone the site: http://www.agistro.com  Find useful information about everything in the village!

 

Acheron in autumn colors

Acheron in autumn colors

Acherontas river

  Our “Acheron” excursion proved an ideal choice on an autumn weekend for the “pametaxidaki” group, although not it’s not a often picked as a destination by travelers in our region, especially at this time of the year. After 2.5 hours easy drive from Veria (Egnatia until the exit to Paramythia) and three toll stops we were transfered into a vast landscape of tranquility and outstanding natural beauty! At the village “Glyki”, right on the bank of the river amongst loaded orange trees!

 Dominant in the region, the river of sorrow, carrying in its waters numerous mythological and unexplained metaphysical legends, it rolls its turquoise waters through the wild scenery of the gorge, tied to ancient Greek mythology, traditions of modern times (St. Donatos’ legend) and history of our country (wars of Souli, etc.). Hall of Underworld, Acheron was the last route for human souls towards “Acherousia” lake in depth of which it was believed that the Underworld is lockated. There boatman Charon directed the souls, collecting the donations in return for his services! Read more about the myths that “flow” in the river’s water here: http://www.prevezainfo.gr/nomosprevezas/prevezaaksiotheata/nekromanteiotouaxeronta/index.html

Glykis Ear  We stayed at “Glyki Ear», ( http://www.glikisear.gr/en/ , τηλ. 2666041007 ) a new hotel on a hill, overlooking the valley. In its well-equipped very tidy apartments, with kitchen, living room and balconies with a view. We have the best comments to make about Andriana’s hospitality in the wonderful apartments of “Glykis Ear”. About the accommodation prices, too! Ask us to introduce her to you!

  Looking for a place to eat towards the center of the village was a bit of an adventure for us! Most restaurants open only until early in the evening at this time of the year. We had lunch at the “Acheron” tavern right by the river- tasty but standard food. The wine was good, too! The next day we chose the tavern near the springs ( “Springs of Acheron”). The tables are under the trees, next to the banks of river. Nice food there, as well but no exceptional dishes. Except “galotyri” which is a local product and was delicious! (Prices from 13 € per person)

What we did and what we recommend:

 Cross the bridge and turn left. At the next street fork you will see a sign “Towards ” on the left. Arriving at the tavern next to the hotel “Acheron springs” the land widens offering magnificent river views. At that point starts a short footpath next to the river that leads to the springs. Walk the footpath! It is very compatible through the beautiful nature, along the banks where the river flows calmly.

 However, the “must” of the area is to walk the path to the “Skala of Tzavelena”. You will see the sign pointing the way to “Souli” and the “Skala of Tzavelena” on your right. It is an uphill path offering incredible views to the river and the surrounding mountains. One can reach “Dala” bridge or, through the well-marked path climbing from 40 to 500m. altitude, head to “Souli”. (a 2.5 hours’ walk)the path to the "Skala of Tzavelena" It is the old path that connected “Souli” with the plain and besides the beautiful view of the “Straits of Acheron”, it passes by stone bridges and derelict mills leading to the old castle of “Kiafa” which was the main stronghold of “Souli”. (Not tested by us!)

 More trails! At the fork we mentioned earlier, head right ways and at the next fork keep left. Once you see a plateau park your car. Take the uphill dirt road and after about 300 meters you will reach a tunnel. Cross it and follow the path through the forest of oaks and beeches, leading down to the river’s stone bridge. There the river flows impetuous forming puddles and ponds!!! Further on lays the old bridge of “Dala”. An easy route (45’) to and fro which we did early in the morning! A wonderful feeling!

 If you are an adventure type, walking to the springs of Acheron, through the river with clear cold waters that reaches the knee or the waist, choose to visit the area in the summer! The route between the towering vertical cliffs of the canyon has been calculated at 1 hour and 30 minutes. You will need suitable equipment (swimwear and tight shoes) and physical fitness for the 2 km walking in the water and swimming against the tide for about 10-15 meters!

Acherontas Otherwise, try one of the activities offered by the “Riverdream Action Club”. Vivi Markou escorted us to the descent by boat (rafting), an easy drive down until the bridge of the village. Bring shoes and clothes you do not mind getting them wet (ice cold water)! And of course, ensure the safety rules (e.g. life jackets, helmet) because you never know!!! If you do not want to get wet, go riding along the river banks or further up on the mountain! And a small tip: there are moments when people are queuing for these activities, which means a long delay (even to prebooked rides). On these occasions they cannot offer the best services as they would have liked or as they should.

 Visit the “Necromanteion” (Oracle of the dead)! At 17 km (15’ far) from Glyki, in the village “Mesopotamos”, on top of a hill, stands the necromancy (5th-4th century BC.) The faithful came here to communicate with the souls of their loved ones. The site is open and the guards willingly give information about its history. (ticket: Full: € 8, Reduced: € 4 – includes the archaeological site Ephyra, as well. Check the visiting hours: tel: 26840 41206 and 2682089890 or visit the site: http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh355.jsp?obj_id=13721 )

Nekromanteion of Acheronthe entrance of the anechoic Central room of the Sanctuarythe anechoic Central room of the Sanctuary

Ammoudia Beach at the mouth of AcheronWhat was going on there? Find out here (at present only in greek):

http://www.prevezainfo.gr/nomosprevezas/prevezaaksiotheata/nekromanteiotouaxeronta/index.html

 Take a coffee break at Mesopotamos the village with the neat streets or follow the road to “Ammoudia Beach” (5 km.) at the mouth of Acheron. Generally the access to the sea is very easy ( 5-10 km.)

 Finally visit the heroic “Souli” by car or rather the villages of Souli area, since there is no village named Souli. Follow the paved road outside Glyki leading to “Samoniva”. It’s an uphill 20 km curvy road. I don’t think we saw any people on our way up and through the area! The imposing landscape, with numerous wells everywhere one next to each other! We visited the new Agia Paraskevi church and off to the scales they have constructed so that people that gather there, during the representation events of the blasting of gunpowder.Kougi An amphitheater to watch the events that take place every last Sunday of May opposite “Kougi”, where the monk Samuel with his five comrades blew up the warehouse in 1803. Further down, the road leads to “Kiafa” castle. The view from up there is spectacular they say. On your way back, stop at the abandoned watermills, where people used to grind their grain. The water falls from several meters high! A fairytale landscape!

  A destination pleasing our vision, hearing and smell in the tranquility of the landscape of the area! A motivate for another trip there in the spring! Andriana, expect us again!

Distances

– Glyki – Mesopotamia (Necromancy): 19 km and Glyki – Beach: 20 km

– Glyki – Souli: 18km and Glyki – Paramythia: 19 km

– Glyki – Parga: 27 km and Glyki – Igoumenitsa: 56 km

– Glyki – Preveza: 59 km, Glyki – Arta: 88 km Gliki Ioannina 108 km

 

The island of Ammouliani in Halkidiki

The island of Ammouliani in Halkidiki

 The island of Ammouliani is located in Halkidiki, in the gulf of Mount Athos. Ferry transport is very frequent during the summer season, with a ferry departing every half hour from Trypiti. The voyage is very short since the mainland is only approximately 3.8km away and the city of Thessaloniki lies at a distance of 130 km. At just 20 minutes and for 2.20 € per person and you have reached the port of Ammouliani.

  Check the ferry departure schedules because there are changes according to the season).

ammouliani 25

  Ammouliani is a small island but having your car can be very handy! It does not cost much (10 €) and you can visit all the beaches of this small island! However, if you choose not to have a vehicle, it’s OK. There is a bus that awaits you at the harbor to take you plunging wherever you wish.

 If you haven’t booked a room,yet, we unreservedly recommend “ARCHONTIKO” hotel. Clean and charming rooms, a variety of handmade breakfast (we loved the home-made orange jam). In June the room price was very reasonable. We are not sure about the rest of the summer!

 ammouliani 14

It’s time to take your buckets and go to the beach!!! Here’s where we went! At the “Beach Bar Island”, “Karagatsia” and “Alykes” (Beach Bar Savana – last in the row, after the camping). Our humble opinion: If you like crowds go to “Alykes”, if you prefer calm, quiet beaches to go “Karagatsia”. Almost all beaches are organized. They provide you with two deck chairs and an umbrella without extra charge, just coffee or whatever else you order. (The Water bottle is for free).

 

Megali Ammos Beach, Beach Bar Island

“Karagatsia” beach

 

 Alykes beach, Beach Bar Savana

 Important Tip: If it’s windy on the island, don’t make second thoughts! Head to “Karagatsia” beach. There is a nice canteen for the “difficult hours”.

 You can also take a day cruise around the island with stops at beaches or even to the smaller islands nearby. If you feel like Sinbad the Sailor, you can also rent your own boat for one day! It’s a great experience! You don’t need a licence!

   Time for some cold coffee? Enjoy it in NAFTILOS or if your choice is for a drink,try AELIA SUMMER COCKTAIL BAR, both with a view to the harbor.

 

 Are you hungry? We ‘ve got all the details for you! Try the fish tavern “TZANIS” , at a 10 minutes’ walk from the port (maybe 8). If you do, we suggest you taste couscous served with seafood. Respect! Great, polite service! If you don’t wish for a fish tavern, you have alternatives such as pizzerias, Greek fast food(gyros/souvlaki wrapped in pita) and small taverns with homemade dishes. There’s no way you will leave dissatisfied!

 Now you expect us to suggest some evening bars … Fail! (It’s not that there aren’t any!) When you go on holiday in June you dream for absolute relaxation and peacefulness, so after dinner, you get back to your room early, turn on the air condition and cool down while watching old series on TV. Avoid the balcony! The raid of many (really a lot of) mosquitoes. Get a mosquito repellent to survive them.

 So here is our overall opinion of Ammouliani! It is a beautiful island, with crystal clear sea, organized beaches, and everything in close proximity. The island size is such that you don’t need to spend time in transportation. It has several shops that cover the whole range of dining, entertainment, gift items and clothing. It also has amusement parks for young and older children. If you visit in June to calm and rest it’s a perfect destination.

 

TIP 1: If you come from Thessaloniki, choose the road via Egnatia motorway and take the turn at the crossroads for Stavros/Redina. (Otherwise, you may be stuck into Halkidiki’s heavy traffic)

TIP 2: The island is small. Not a good choice for long holidays.

A tasty Sifnos

A tasty Sifnos

The first time we visited his beautiful island, George, our friend from Sifnos, told us: “Sifnos has an energy that you either accept it and worship the island, or you reject it and never come again.” After three years holidays’ in a row in Sifnos, guess what has happened! The DNA that builds our chromosomes has now a trickle of the “blue” of Sifnos!

   As you understand, it’s a little difficult to tell you which places we visited and what we ate in all three visits. “So here are the highlights. And you’re lucky, to come along at the best!

   How do you go to Sifnos? Just …take a boat from Piraeus. There are many itineraries offered during the day by various ferry companies. You’d better get the fast ferry. Three hours later you’ll be there! Here’s a tip: You will find it handy to have your car with you. Sifnos is a big island which means you need a means of transport. You can always rent one but we can’t guarantee the prices! If, on the other hand, you don’t have a car, no worries! KTEL with its frequent itineraries all over the island, will be at your service.

   For a stay we will tell you a name: HOTEL NYMFES in Kamares (at the port). George (yes, it is the one that we mentioned above) and Moscha (his gentle sister) are our friends, we really can not tell you anything about their hotel: neither about the Greek, most traditional and handmade breakfast nor about the pool that will cool you off on the days when you are lazy enough to go to the beach, or the rooms that have a view to the harbor and the sunsets of Sifnos. No, we won’t tell you anything, so that you don’t think we are biased! Just look at the photos and draw your own conclusions.

  Have you been settled in your room? Put on sunscreen and off to the sea. Sifnos has beaches for all tastes. From sunset and calm, without human intervention, to organized beaches with the comfort of sunbeds and umbrellas. Choose among the sandy beaches in Kamares, Vathi, Platis Gialos, Apokofto, Faros, the pebbled one in Vroulidia (hold your breath on the way back, walking the up cliff path!) And if you wish for a beach on rocks, then go to Chrysopigi. You know, there is the church of Panagia Chrisopigi! Exquisite! Most photographed sight! You may have heard about the many weddings taking place there.

   We went to nearly all of them. Do you want to know our favourite ones? Kamares, at “Syrma” café, Wire (very polite people, free of charge sunbeds along your order. You’ll enjoy your coffee as well as their dishes ). Faros (Glypho), see that you go relatively early there, to catch up the shadowy spaces under the trees to lay your body and finally the Apokofto, which also has trees along the beach and you enjoy a view of Chrysopigi.

cafe Wire Apokofto Faros

   And now we reach our favorite theme. FOOD! We don’t know if you’ve heard, but Sifnos is the island of gastronomy! The Greek chef of the 20th century, Nikos Tselementes was born and first cooked here the famous Siphneian chickpea recipe. And of course, there is also a Gastronomic Festival named after Nicholas Tselemnedes. On September 2016, Artemonas organized the 10th festival in a row, and it has reached the point when the festival is slowly expanding to the rest of Greece and abroad as well. We also met the president of the Cultural Club of Sifnos Ms. Maria Nadali The success of the festival was more than certain being organized by such active members of this club. Visiting each pavilion and tasting the traditional delicacies of each place is, by no doubt, a form of happiness. Good food is also happiness (Yes, we ate a lot and we returned heavier)!

Nicholas Tselemnedes Gastronomic Festival

    And here’s what we tasted! In Kamares, if you want cooked food and delicious seafood, go to “Meropi”. If you want “gyros” or “souvlaki”, go straight to “Maria” at Avlemon. In case you wish for Italian flavours, we recommend the pizza house Da Claudio. You’ll eat well!

   In Apollonia you can choose “Dremon”, the Italian “Mamma Mia” and Art Restaurant Cayenne (a bit pricey but you will experience a cultural and delicious taste shock).

   In Artemonas, visit Mosaic and the Yellow Sweet Shop Bike.

    Finally, for something completely different try the Lebanese delicacies in Maiolica in Platis Gialos . Strong and spicy flavors in deliciously served dishes!

    And when you are done with food, wouldn’t be nice to go for a drink? Oh, yes! You’re gonna go! You have a lot of choices, especially in Apollonia, but for a special experience choose Rabaga. A great multi-purpose place that combines food, drink, shopping and fun.

  Before we let you go back to what you read, we suggest that you go to Castro. Great location with panoramic view. If you are an early bird, then this is your place to be! A perfect sunrise spot!

  P.S. 1: Hey!… We forgot to tell you about the church of Saint Symeon, at the top of the mountain, above Kamares! A 360 ° view! What’s more, at night, when it’s lit up, it looks like it’s flying!

  P.S. 2: Almonds and anthers cooked by Gregory in Artemonas! And the ceramics, a gift to mummy by Giannis Apostolides in Kamares

  P.S. 3: Don’t forget to bring all the above home as souvenirs. The memory of Sifnos will be with you forever !!