1st May – a morning in a fairy forest!

1st May – a morning in a fairy forest!

 Metamorphosi (Drazilovo), Naoussa, in the heart of Vermio Mountain, was our choice for the 1st May holiday, to spend a day in nature as usual. Driving through the narrow mountain roads … .. hoping to find the chapel of Metamorphosis, the waterfalls and the bars (natural ponds), along the flow of the nearby stream and with the rainy weather making it almost impossible for us to stay, we finally got somewhere outside the village, following the signs with some uncertainty. But the courageous win and in our case it was really rejoicing!

   But the courageous win and in our case it was really rejoicing!

The built barbeque and the tables next to the church were just fine. Right after the meal we started exploring the place! We headed to the stream that we heard flowing in the forest, somewhere in the woods…

If there are fairies, they would definitely be there that day! Right in this forest, among the tall trees, the lilies, the salamanders, the streams with the bridges and the waterfalls! We walked a dreamy path through the forest, following a well-marked path to the ponds, the great waterfall and the tunnel from where the British Decauville train was carrying the logs from the forest of Vermio until 1921, as a sign that has been set up at some point informed us! And another one explained that there was the place where the guerrilla galleys were set up next to the river, during the German occupation! Three friends (worthy people) were responsible for shaping the whole area. They took the initiative and worked voluntarily and we thank them for offering us this experience.

So gather your friends and set off! We are here to offer any information you need!

Spa in nature!

Spa in nature!

 Pozar Baths, in the shade of Mount “Kaimaktsalan” (Boras). The ultimate destination that combines the healing qualities of the warm waters of the mountain with the physical and mental well-being that contact with nature can offer. The former tourist destination of middle-aged people, experiencing the beneficial effect of thermal waters according to the belief that 10 baths per year can shield the human body, has been a fashion for some years now! Spa fashion over the past decade has made “Pozar Baths” in Loutraki, Aridea, famous even in younger ages!

  “Pozar” means “thraka”, lit charcoal. The temperature of the water is constantly at 37 ° C. It springs at an altitude of 360-400 meters along the bed of “Thermopotamos” or “Ag. Nicolaou Stream”, with a rich supply up to 650 km / h. There are two hydrotherapy facilities in the spa. The thermal water is supplied through high-flow pipelines to specially designed indoor – individual or group – swimming pools, steam baths, Jacuzzi, spa. A large, open swimming pool is ideal for winter-summer dives, while the most daring ones prefer the small waterfalls and natural screeching pools right at the bank of the river!

 You can also massage if you like! Choose according to your preferences! Coffee is also served by the river! Guests are served by numerous changing rooms, restaurants, cafes, hotels, shops with local products, etc.

 The wider area is in itself a natural attraction! The verdant environment, with the plane trees and waterfalls on the blue river, can be enjoyed by following the paved path that starts from the Baths, leading to Pozar gorge. Follow the cold river bank, explore the place, take pictures of the crystal-clear waters or sculpture-like trees, rest on the benches you will find in the openings of the paths or on the stone benches and admire the panoramic view of the gorge from the highest points of rocks. Proceed as long as you like! There is a cluster of caves at some point but it was not accessible as we were informed!

 The Enjoy your bath in the natural swimming pools, indoors or even in your hotel room (steam bath, Jacuzzi next to your bed, etc.), and when the time comes for a meal, try a 5’ drive to Orma. The “Tavern of Boubou” at the square is just what you need! We were very pleased with our choice that afternoon!

Check out the following pages and organize your excursion according to your whishes!

http://www.loutrapozar.net/index.aspx

https://www.mpoumpou.gr/

http://www.visitgreece.gr/en/leisure/wellness/thermal_baths/pozar_thermal_baths

Xanthi – a quick visit!

Xanthi – a quick visit!

Kokkymelon   How possible is it to take up a three hours’ drive for less than a 48 hours’ vacation? We did it and we haven’t regretted it, not for a minute!
We chose Xanthi and the Traditional guesthouse “Kokkymelon”, 13 km far from the town, in the village of Toxotes! We really hit the nail on the head! Peering out the nature of the plain from the restored stone house, with the dreamy decoration of a romantic farmhouse (we loved it!) was all we dreamt of! Once owned by a Turkish tobacco merchant, the house was transformed from its owner into a home that everyone feels its own! You can see it in the pictures and you will see for yourself when you visit! Quality in everything, especially the hospitality and grooming by Eleni, who prepared our handmade breakfast!
The tour of Old Town of Xanthi is first on the list! Walking on its paved streets, it is your pleasure to see the neoclassical houses of old smokers in the city of Xanthi, some restored and others with the time signs over them to witness times of acne, when Xanthi was hosting 4 consulates (Italian, Austro-Hungarian, French and Greek). Somewhere there, is the impressive building where the Folklore Museum is housed.

The Folklore Museum

Mezebar And if it is a Saturday morning, the Xanthi Bazaar, known for its oriental color, set up every Saturday near the city center of Xanthi, is one of the largest open-air markets in Northern Greece, full of colors, sounds and life. If you resist and do not shop, tell us how you managed it!

And it’s afternoon at a glance of time! At the corner in front of us, stands “Mezebar”! By entering, we feel that we have chosen correctly and by eating we knit the praise of the cook and the whole shop. As soon as the treated sweet is served on our table (“Seker pare” it was – not at all common!!!) we meet Mr. Vasilis, the owner, who tells us the story of the shop! We are so pleased! After the bill happy as well, too!
Seker pare
Evening at «Art Bar Favela Chic» for a drink, along with many others! They served us fast and willingly, though! Xanthi is a vivid city, with youths that fill its shops!

When you wake up and everything is ready, set on the breakfast table, fresh local pies and eggs with thracian sausage, let alone the homemade fruit jams…. what a joy your day starts with!

Straits of NestosWe reluctantly made our farewells to Eleni and went for a short walk to the “Straits of Nestos” , just 10 minutes far from the Train Station of Toxotes -Galani. The uphill path with the unique view of the river on our left, was short given the rainy weather. Next time we will take the train that starts from Toxotes railway station heading towards Stavroupoli and crosses all the straits of Nestos, … the “Thracian Tempi”, offering a unique view of the Nestos meanders, during the 20-minute route through dozens of tunnels! We asked for the itineraries, of course, and they told us that it starts at 8.30 in the morning! Hard time! Find out here: (Xanthi Tel. Tel. 25410-27030, 22581)

Porto Lagos then, where Lake Vistonida joins the Thracian Sea and as the weather makes, we enjoy the walk in the harbor and then on the wooden bridge that leads to the Monastery of Ag. Nicholas and then to Panagia Pantanassa. In the lagoon-habitat that hosts hundreds of species of birds, among them some rare and endangered, and flora that are all protected by international treaties. Gulls are so familiar that will eat from your hand and further on the flamingos, paint the landscape pink!

 

the Monastery of Ag. Nicholas

the House of Shadow Our last visit was at the House of Shadow in Xanthi. It’s a workshop / exhibition, where Triantaphyllos Vaitsis creates works from … rubbish and waste materials, and after illuminating them properly, he projects their shadow on the wall. So you can see in the shadow of the sculpture some forms or even a whole scene and even with deep meaning many times. Really impressive!

A few bites before returning. We tried “Dromaki” at the entrance of the old town. The gastronomy of Xanthi did not disappoint us!

We experienced it all in such a way, so as to leave us the sweet memory and desire to be back!

Depending on your time and the weather you can:

  • explore the area in a canoe, on a bike or a 4×4, experience rafting or hiking with Riverland that will provide you with the appropriate equipment and guidance.
  • If the action is not your forte, there is also the relaxed choice to drive up to the location “Thea”, right above the village “Toxotes” towards “Imeros (11km distance) from where you can marvel at the meanders of river Nestos from high above.!
  • Visit other sites in Xanthi! Make your choices through the tour guides provided in PDF here: http://www.pexanthis.eu/index.php/menu-tourismos/odigos.html
Papigo villages- Beauty without limits

Papigo villages- Beauty without limits

Megalo (Big) Papigo

  Top destination all through the year, Papigo is getting higher and higher in the preferences of those who love mountainous destinations. We visited in autumn this year and we once again realized the reason for its certification as “Protected Settlement of Special Beauty”. We won’t talk about the beauty that our eyes enjoyed. The photos we took speak for themselves! We will just tell you where to eat nicely, and what to see in the area on a 48 hours’ stay!

WHERE TO EAT

  For dinner, we picked the “Routes of flavors” in Papigo and their pork chicken and chicken “kontosouvli”, a mixed salad and the local cheese (galotyri) in a beautiful environment, and when it was time to leave, we all agreed that Mr. Aris knows how to lead you in enjoyable, tasty trails!

The next day, for lunch, with the rain falling unceasingly, we found shelter in “Zeus”, in Mikro Papigo! The space inside makes you wonder if you made a good choice but what a lucky pick! Beef with spaghetti, ”metsovore cheese”, wine, all excellent!

ACCOMMODATION

  We stayed at the amazing “Papigo Villas”, a complex of 3 traditional autonomous villas at the entrance of the village! We stayed (all six of us) together in the lovely villa “Sileni”, overlooking the village and the towers of Papigo. Fully equipped, with a more than full refrigerator to prepare our breakfast! Ideal hospitality and a very good price (150 € / night for 6 people)! We strongly recommend it!

SternaSTROLLING AROUND

  Wander at the cobblestone streets of the stone-built villages! Do not miss the opportunity to walk them all! Every now and then you can’t resist but stopping for photo shots! As for the view to the Astrakas Towers it magnifies your eyes!

  In the unique “Sterna”, at the entrance of the village, you will spend a lot of time choosing unique and tasteful decorative and utilitarian items, homemade jams, liqueurs, herbs … but also in “Rogovo” , on the side of the village where the road leads to Mikro Papigo, you will find traditional products of the area and selected items that travel you in time!

“Kolimbithres” or “Ovires Rogovou”. Natural ponds formed on the road of the “Rogovos” stream, due to the particular geological character of the area. Follow the path next to the stream. It is in the middle of the distance between the two settlements. You will see the wooden sign.

“Voidomatis” riverVisit “Agios Vlassios” church in Megalo Papigo, with its rare architecture and its 100-year-old frescoes and the “Taxiarches”church in Mikro Papigo.

Stop at the bridge of the blue “Voidomatis” river! Highly photographed, it passes you over the cleanest river in Europe!

Hiking, horseriding, rafting for the most active of you… and more that you’ll discover yourself, depending on your mood or you will read in the article on our page https://www.pametaxidaki.gr/en/2015/05/23/a-2-days-trip-to-west-zagori/

And if you feel like telling us what else you tried …we are here to listen!

A LITTLE FURTHER

“Margarites” in “Kipoi” village

  On our way back towards Giannena we stopped for some coffee in the village “Kipoi” and the café “Margarites”. We got in the café looking around the decorations! Freshly decorated for Christmas! All we wanted was a cup of coffee…. a few minutes later…six teaspoons along with an orange pie, a desert named “ants”, hot from the oven, ice cream with sweet blueberries, and a devine banoffee filled the table space!!! All handmade and freshly made!

Tripoli: in the heart of Morea

Tripoli: in the heart of Morea

   Approaching the city, the Arcadian landscape is revealed in front of you. The Mantineia Plateau with its vineyards and the Forested “Mainalo” mountain at the background! You drive through the city from square to square!

   In your tour of the heroic city, you will stop at the central square of Ag. Vasileios! The imposing metropolitan temple dominates the square, built at the same place as the mosque of Ottoman Tripolitsa.
Enjoy your Greek coffee at the traditional “Grand Cafe” ( a building of 1898) next to the main square, decorated with heavy dramatic curtains, large, carved, wooden mirrors and chandeliers , still retaining something of its oldest glamor.

metropolitan temple of Ag. Vasileios the traditional «Grand Cafe»

You will stop at the renovated “Petrinos” Square with its cafes and bars next to the “Malliopouleion Theatron” (listed in 1905).

«Malliopouleion Theatron»

   When you continue to “Plateia Areos”, you will find yourself in one of the largest squares in Greece. Together with the lush municipal park, numerous cafes and taverns, it is justifiably the meeting point of everyone in the city. At one end stands the imposing statue symbol of Tripoli: the Old Man of Moria, galloping on his horse and at the other side stands the Court House.

the Old Man of Moriathe Court House

   The city has an Archaeological as well as a War Museum, with relics of the 1821 Revolution of the nation. Excellent buildings testify the architectural past of the city. Among them are the magnificent building of the Cultural Center and the neoclassical building of the former Town Hall of the city.

the Cultural Center
Is it time to eat something? You will go to straight to “Drunk dog” and you will not regret it! https://www.facebook.com/DrunkDog/

At  the outskirts …

   Enjoy a walk in the coolness and tranquility of “Agios Georgios” grove or perhaps watch a show at his stone open theater and, in the afternoon, head to Agios Theodoros. A path behind the church leads to the “Stone of Kolokotroni” , a curvy rock that resembles an armchair, from  where Kolokotronis  was overlooking  the whole city during its siege by the ottomans . Incredible views!

 

stone open theater of «Agios Georgios»

 

Tripoli from the «Stone of Kolokotroni»

And a little further, 13 km to the north and across the archaeological site of ancient Mantineia, is the church of Aghia Fotini! You have never seen such a church! Ancient Greek and Byzantine architectural styles make up its undefined architecture, built with a variety of materials! A church difficult to describe.
Aghia Fotini
If it is around 15th August, all the streets lead to one destination! “Tegea’s” big feast (an open market lasting for 5 days) is a unique experience! Dozens of merchants sell their products at good prices, in front of the Byzantine church of “Episkopi” and in a beautiful park owned by the Tegean League. Do not leave without tasting the famous “pig in the spit”, a special delicacy! The smell will lead you to the right spot, of course!
the Byzantine church of «Episkopi» in Tegea
Buy traditional products: noodles, lasagna, “diples” and local cheese!

Arcadian land is closely linked to the long history of the place! Your options are not limited here. From Tripoli you can have day trips to the coastal “Leonidio” and “Astros” and the mountainous “Levidi”, “Dimitsana”, ”Vytina”,”Lagadia” … .. Decide which aspect of Arcadia you want to explore and set off!

Hand to hand with a Janissary (Gianitsaros) in Naoussa

Hand to hand with a Janissary (Gianitsaros) in Naoussa

  Carnival is celebrated everywhere across Greece, but it’s only in Naoussa that the Janissaries dance along the “patinada” rhythm. And it is this sound of the “zourna” approaching slowly and getting louder and louder as it gets closer, until you feel the tabor accompanying him pounding inside you, like a second heart! At that moment, the group of the “Janissaries and Boules” passes by you! Young and old Janissaries outcross their swords dancing “patinada”, a slow, sad song. The musicians are the last to follow the group, along with the leader of the group who checks everything around and instructs which songs will be played. If you don’t hear the zourna playing, you haven’t experienced the carnival in Naoussa!

  The custom roots back in the years of the Ottoman occupation and was interrupted only during the war (1940-1954). It was revived thanks to the love and tenacity of some people that despite the difficulties of those years were able to set it up again. It’s a purely traditional custom that incorporates in its ritual all the history of the place and its inhabitants. The Janissary (Gianitsaros in Greek) is dressed early and when the plaintive sound of the zourna is heard in the distance, he comes to the window or on the balcony and shakes his body two or three times to greet them. He greets his family goodbye by hopping three times on his feet, crosses his fingers on the doorstep and joins the group that came to get him. They gather all, from the youngest to the oldest and finally the leader. They wait for the Boulla (a man dressed as a bride) to respectfully hand kiss the family and join the group that heads to the Town Hall to ask for permission from the Mayor to dance on the town’s streets. Everything has its special meaning here. Every move, every song to be played on a specific moment during the strictly defined route!

 “Town Hall” – “Triodi” – “Kammena” – “Pouliana” – “Batania” – “Stoa” – “Agios Georgios “– “Alonia”: it’s the historic, strictly kept track of the dancing groups, followed by many people until they come to the old “Alonia” district, where they take off their masks, eat, drink and dance along with the people.

  This takes place on both Sundays of the Carnival season. On Shrove Monday as well, only then they do not have their masks on. When it is time of parting, they make a circle, put the organist in the middle, they hit their swords on earth and promise to meet on Sunday of Orthodoxy in “Spilaio” area, for the last celebration that will close period of Carnival in Naoussa.

 The custom of “Janissaries and Boules” coexists nowadays with modern satirical carnivals, preparing all year through to get on their improvised chariots and satirize modern politics and affairs, wandering around the town’s streets.   Today not so many in number and so great in originality than my memory recalls from the past, when we could hear the zournas playing beneath our window before dawn, inviting us to masquerade quickly and follow the group that woke us up! Drinking and dancing all night long, door to door, waking up everyone!

 The custom is kept alive and inalterable up to our days. It is a unique tradition, so it fills the city streets with hundreds of people on these days.