“Hooked up in pleasure”

“Hooked up in pleasure”

Ano Poroia  “Agkistro” (= hook ), a small village close to the borders with Bulgaria, was picked as a relaxing destination during our Christmas holidays and it very much justified our choice! So here are all the secrets so that you can enjoy what it offers!

  So we set off from Veria, on the second day of Christmas, choosing to follow the road to Kerkini and Ano Poroia. On our stop at Poroia we came upon the village’s Christmas feast: Every year, they organize the “Gournosfagia” ( slaughtering of pigs) at the main square. Smoked piglets, frying pancakes, crumbs and” tsipouro” are treated to visitors accompanied by music of course! We drank our coffee at “Nastou View Hotel” at the highest point of the village, enjoying a wonderful view of Lake Kerkini.

  A 40 ‘drive led us to “Agkistro” through Promachonas. “Agkistro” is the northernmost village of the prefecture of Serres, built at the foot of the homonymous mountain (Mount Agkistro or “Tsigelli” at an altitude of 1,294m), near the well-known “Fort Rupel”, right next to the border line with neighboring Bulgaria. In the “Wooden Village”, “Nastou View Hotel”Our hotel welcomed us with smiles and our good mood was enhanced when we got into the warm rooms (built with wooden trunks), fireplaces and exposed roofs. An intimidating environment especially when it got dark showing up the impressive Christmas decoration!

  Time to eat, and since we came all the way, we had to try the homegrown trout cooked on charcoal. The waters of “Strymonas” river feed the village’s fish farm (you can navigate through the tanks), which also has a tavern that is open since 1977 (PEKAM). In its vintage decor, as if the we were transferred back in time, we enjoyed our fresh fish! The smoked trout was very delicious!

Wooden village Hotel

Wooden village Hotel Wooden village Hotel

"Eight" café /bar  After coffee and chatting in the main building of “Wooden Village”, Antonia, the polite receptionist, fully enlightened us about the region! In the evening we went to the “Eight” café /bar of “Paroraia” Boutique Hotel . A wonderful place with cozy atmosphere and fine music! A must! We spent several hours of our 2day vacations on its sofas, around the fireplace enjoying our coffee, tea or drink!

Second Day: Morning walk in the village and visit to “Fort Rupel”

stone Byzantine tower  On our walk, we came by the square which is dominated by the stone, Byzantine tower, which was used as a prison or even as a place of execution during the Ottoman domination. Today it is just a clock, depicting the local architecture.

  Following the signs from “Promachonas” (14km away), we drove to the “Fort Rupel”, incident to the resistance and heroism of the Greeks during the war with the Germans. It was never occupied, but was surrendered after the capitulation to the Germans on 10/4/1941. The fortress today is accessible (free of charge), daily from 9.00 to 13.00 (entrance accepted until 12.30). The tour includes first a brief presentation of the external space, a brief analysis of the military connections in this area at that time, and finally a visit into the “deep” land with the shelters, blockhouses and endless underground galleries. Impressive!

Fort Rupel

 Fort Rupel   Fort Rupel

"The hamam" “Agkistro” and the “hamam”(Turkish word for the steam bath- the contemporary spa) are absolutely connected to each other! A little further below the “Wooden Village” are the “hamams” of the village. The Byzantine hamam, the oldest Turkish bath, dates back to 950 AD. And is characterized as a real monument. In recent years, it has been expanded, utilized and framed by additional modern halls and a community hotel (“Hamam”,hamamagistro.gr, tel. 2323041420). It is built right next to the Byzantine hamam. Upon appointment (make sure to book it earlier in the day), you can enjoy your steam bath in a mysterious atmosphere: from the surrounding hot springs there is a steady flow of hot water at 37-38 ° C creating dense water vapor. One can see the dim light of candles (electricity does not exist in the old hamam, but there are newly built as well). The thermal waters spring through the rocks of Mount Agkistro and, as they travel to the surface of the earth, acquire the metallic components, which are mainly to be credited for their healing properties. The benefits of using the hamam include, among others, the relief of musculoskeletal pain, relaxation of the muscles and improvement of skin conditions. The odorless water effectively releases the toxins from the body and embellishes the skin. The hot springs of Agkistro are considered among the best in Europe, and are open for 365 days, 24 hours a day. Just take with you a swimsuit, a towel, slippers and a cap if it’s winter) !!!

"Don Pablo"  Two days are not enough to try the village taverns. We ate tasty zea pasta in “Don Pablo” but we did not get to taste the venison and other dishes of “Kyra Maria” (tel: 2323041144) and the kitchen of “Wooden Village”, for which we heard great comments! Check out the page: http://www.agistro.com/

 “Agkistro Action”, the first Alternative Tourism Office in Greece, organizes tours at the decommissioned northern fortifications (Fortresses Line of Metaxas). At the same time, “Agkistro Action” organizes activities in nature (cycling, mountaineering, archery, kayaking, Fliyng fox, etc.). A very good choice! Get detailed information on their highly organized website: www.agkistroaction.gr or call (tel. 2323043033 & 6980138846)

 If you would like to bring home with you some local products visit the “Traditional Product Shop”, just before entering the village (tel. 2323041210 & 6974458809). We , on the other hand drove up to “Irakleia” (20 ‘) to get the original “Tzoumagias sausages”! (In Coco)

 We bid farewell to Agkistro and the people we met there, full of expectations for our next visit! Why not have come back here in spring!

The title ” Hooked up in pleasure” was “stolen” from the name of the homonymous cafe in the village! We loved it!

 AgkistroMORE ADOUT THE VILLAGE

 The beginning of the history of the village is lost in the depths of the ages. During the reign of Philip II of Macedonia, in the 4th century BC, iron and gold mines of Mount Agkistro, were providing valuable material, along with the mines of Pangaio, to the campaign of Alexander the Great in Asia. This era is also marked by the discovery of the warm waters that flow from the mountains, resulting in a strong human presence in the area for the centuries to come. The stone bath dates back to the Byzantine era, as well as the tower in the center of the village, which served as a clock in the 14th century. During the Ottoman domination the village was called “Tsigelli”, with the bey (Turkish ruler) of the region and its harem enjoying the warm waters of the bath, as the monument was the private hamam.

 Agkistro has suffered severe disasters in all the difficult moments of modern history (Balkan Wars, World War I, World War II, and Civil War). Due to its particular geopolitical position, is has been a militarized zone for many years. At present there are about 400 residents in the village who are mainly engaged in agriculture, livestock, beekeeping, logging, and tourism.

 In the summer they organize the three-day cultural festival “Without Frontiers” (1st week in August) with concerts by popular Greek artists, dance groups and good local food, while on the third day, there is a River Party at the Mills

ABOUT THE HAMAM water temperature 37-38 ° C

 We enter the hamam “prive”, by appointment, for half an hour or for an hour or even more if we want. We pay € 6.00 per person for half an hour (i.e. if we are a company of 4 people and we want the steam bath to ourselves for 1 hour, then we will pay a total of 40 €). The water is poured into a pool of 3×3 meters and depth of 1.20 m. At the peak hours it is difficult to find a free steam bath, so many people are even more comfortable in the post-hours! Attention: To the Byzantine Hamam priority is given to the residents of the “Hamam Hotel” and to those who stay overnight at the village. If it is winter, make sure you are warmly equipped because the new hamams are outside the hotel, so you have to go out and walk to the building or the car!

 You can also get a massage. Ask for the services at “Hamam Hotel”

TIPS:

Distance

– Agkistro – Thessaloniki : 122 km

– Agkistro – Serres : 50 km

– Agkistro – Veroia: 191 km

– Agkistro – Rupel: 16 km, Agistro – Poroia: 50 km

Download the guide http://www.agistro.com/images/maps/Guide_FINAL.pdf

Keep in your mobile phone the site: http://www.agistro.com  Find useful information about everything in the village!

 

The island of Ammouliani in Halkidiki

The island of Ammouliani in Halkidiki

 The island of Ammouliani is located in Halkidiki, in the gulf of Mount Athos. Ferry transport is very frequent during the summer season, with a ferry departing every half hour from Trypiti. The voyage is very short since the mainland is only approximately 3.8km away and the city of Thessaloniki lies at a distance of 130 km. At just 20 minutes and for 2.20 € per person and you have reached the port of Ammouliani.

  Check the ferry departure schedules because there are changes according to the season).

ammouliani 25

  Ammouliani is a small island but having your car can be very handy! It does not cost much (10 €) and you can visit all the beaches of this small island! However, if you choose not to have a vehicle, it’s OK. There is a bus that awaits you at the harbor to take you plunging wherever you wish.

 If you haven’t booked a room,yet, we unreservedly recommend “ARCHONTIKO” hotel. Clean and charming rooms, a variety of handmade breakfast (we loved the home-made orange jam). In June the room price was very reasonable. We are not sure about the rest of the summer!

 ammouliani 14

It’s time to take your buckets and go to the beach!!! Here’s where we went! At the “Beach Bar Island”, “Karagatsia” and “Alykes” (Beach Bar Savana – last in the row, after the camping). Our humble opinion: If you like crowds go to “Alykes”, if you prefer calm, quiet beaches to go “Karagatsia”. Almost all beaches are organized. They provide you with two deck chairs and an umbrella without extra charge, just coffee or whatever else you order. (The Water bottle is for free).

 

Megali Ammos Beach, Beach Bar Island

“Karagatsia” beach

 

 Alykes beach, Beach Bar Savana

 Important Tip: If it’s windy on the island, don’t make second thoughts! Head to “Karagatsia” beach. There is a nice canteen for the “difficult hours”.

 You can also take a day cruise around the island with stops at beaches or even to the smaller islands nearby. If you feel like Sinbad the Sailor, you can also rent your own boat for one day! It’s a great experience! You don’t need a licence!

   Time for some cold coffee? Enjoy it in NAFTILOS or if your choice is for a drink,try AELIA SUMMER COCKTAIL BAR, both with a view to the harbor.

 

 Are you hungry? We ‘ve got all the details for you! Try the fish tavern “TZANIS” , at a 10 minutes’ walk from the port (maybe 8). If you do, we suggest you taste couscous served with seafood. Respect! Great, polite service! If you don’t wish for a fish tavern, you have alternatives such as pizzerias, Greek fast food(gyros/souvlaki wrapped in pita) and small taverns with homemade dishes. There’s no way you will leave dissatisfied!

 Now you expect us to suggest some evening bars … Fail! (It’s not that there aren’t any!) When you go on holiday in June you dream for absolute relaxation and peacefulness, so after dinner, you get back to your room early, turn on the air condition and cool down while watching old series on TV. Avoid the balcony! The raid of many (really a lot of) mosquitoes. Get a mosquito repellent to survive them.

 So here is our overall opinion of Ammouliani! It is a beautiful island, with crystal clear sea, organized beaches, and everything in close proximity. The island size is such that you don’t need to spend time in transportation. It has several shops that cover the whole range of dining, entertainment, gift items and clothing. It also has amusement parks for young and older children. If you visit in June to calm and rest it’s a perfect destination.

 

TIP 1: If you come from Thessaloniki, choose the road via Egnatia motorway and take the turn at the crossroads for Stavros/Redina. (Otherwise, you may be stuck into Halkidiki’s heavy traffic)

TIP 2: The island is small. Not a good choice for long holidays.

Sithonia’s peninsula setting off from  Nikiti

Sithonia’s peninsula setting off from Nikiti

A blue and green symphony! That’s what it is! The pine trees reach the sea in the second “leg” of Halkidiki, which impresses with its rugged landscape, thrilling nature lovers and those seeking a relaxing holiday. From traditional villages, coves and vast beaches bathed in the pines up to quaint fishing villages, the alternations in the second “leg” will surely impress you! Even though in recent years mass tourism has changed to a great extent the towns of Sithonia (Pref. Marmaras, Sarti, Nikiti), it is certain that in this region … one can discover little nature diamonds!

Old village of Nikiti

In the end, it is true what they say! “There’s no place like Halkidiki!” It’s there that every summer, for the past 12 years, having as a base Natasha’s house, we visit a different beach every other day . What’s the wind’s direction today? Is it north? Then we’re going to “Kastri”! South? To “Trani Ammouda” then! And so on…

For everyone who tastes the graces the area for the first time, here is some useful information to start with:

Nikiti village and Nikiti Beach

Nikiti on the hill or at the seaside? That’s a dilemma. Whatever you choose is just as enjoyable.

The crossroads of the main road (at the traffic lights) leads either – if you turn left as you come from Thessaloniki – to the narrow streets that lead to the traditional village, perched on the hill, with the beautifully preserved houses, built since 1830, or – if you turn right, to the beach of Nikiti, where cafes and taverns one next to another offer their goods along with great sea views and under the trees’ shade.

The traditional settlement is built on the hillside and it is ideal for a walk any time of day.. The Macedonian architecture of the houses with the characteristic chimneys, displaying the art of the craftsmen that built them, the church of Agios Nikitas on the hill, built in 1867 and the old school are worthy sights. You can sip a Greek coffee at the oldest cafe of the village, that of Nikos Kazan, with the wooden tables under a large pergola. If by any chance you find yourself in Nikiti on September 15, the feast day of the saint, note that a feast is held on that day, as well as a wandering of the holy icon of the Saint, in a sacred ceremony along the streets of the village.

Nikiti's beach

During the 50s, the village was extended to the beach. Of course, you will stroll around, …… and take many walks on the beach of Nikiti, which has been transformed after fully regenerated since last year. On the road that leads from the traffic lights to the esplanade, there are shops selling clothes, jewelry and souvenirs. The stroll, starting from the harbor and the picturesque church of Agioi Theodoroi, and heading east ways, and up to the end of the dirt road (where the camping area starts), covers a distance of about 2 km. On the beach of Nikiti there are several cafes and bars next to the sea, most of which offer sun beds free of charge.

The main beach of Nikiti is a cozy place with clean, warm water. It is ideal for families with small children because the seabed is shallow in most places. It is easily accessible by foot or car, from almost every part of Nikiti and offers many facilities. It’s worth mentioning that it’s awarded with a blue flag every year.

Useful Tips

The beach stretches for an over two kilometers distance. However, you can comfortably walk along the promenade that covers half of it and continue on the street along its full length.

If you prefer driving along in your car, you might face some unpleasant traffic during the weekends in August. The place is filled by vacationers and is usual with some of them not to respect the rules, parking anywhere on the crowded beach road. The traffic on the coastal road is not allowed in the evenings!

The beach basically starts at the end of the main vertical to the beach street heading south. On the other side, there is a marina for small boats, which is ideal for evening walks.

Along the beach, there are plenty of cafés, restaurants and bars that usually have chairs, loungers and umbrellas on the beach. Most of them have a wireless network.

Suggestions for food: We loved the “Kazanis” restaurant. Tel .: 2375023333, and the “Arsanas” tavern Tel. 23750237-87. For pizza lovers taste nice Italian pizza in «Nel Fuoco», and Greek “gyro” / “souvlaki” in “Gyromania”, all on Nikiti’s beach promenade.

Distances

20km far from Neos Marmaras

91km far from Thessaloniki

Nearby beaches

2km “Kastri Beach”, 5km “Kovios Beach”, 6km “Kalogria Beach”

Where to swim

Having so many options with such a great number of beaches, different from each other, though equally beautiful , take the chance to test them all! The most frequent options could be:

Beaches nearby Nikiti

Kastri- 2km far

KastriA not-so-well-known beach of Sithonia, between Nikiti and Agios Ioannis. It consists of two small creeks that meet in cape Kastri, with a feature islet off the small bay . The water is clean, shallow and the sea bed is sandy. It is easily accessible by car, although you will need to locate the narrow road leading to the beach. The beach is not organized, so if you want an umbrella or lounge chair you should bring along your own.

The area is considered by many archaeologists as the site of the ancient city “Galipsos”, mentioned by Herodotus. It is certain that there was an ancient settlement, as there are remnants of fortifications on the islet, while a little further, near “Saint John’s” beach, an ancient cemetery was revealed during excavations.

Useful Tips

The access to the beach is via a narrow road. To find the road, follow the old road that leads from Nikiti to Agios Ioannis.

The road leads to one of the two bays. If you want to go to the other you’d better either swim or climb the cliffs to reach it, as car access is difficult. You can visit the island even on foot!!!!! They say that it’s possible, if you find the ancient trail that is now immersed!!! (Don’t even think to try it!)

It is a clean family beach without beach bars or water sports activities. Quiet and calm !!!!

Generally speaking, the beach is not so well known. It is relatively small, so it is going to be difficult to find space to park your car probably during the high season (July 15- August 15)

Ai Giannis (Saint John) – at 4 km

A very beautiful, open space area of ​​Nikiti, in Sithonia Halkidiki. The beach is covered by a velvet smooth sand and it’s of great length and width. The water is emerald! The only drawback is that there is a flat rock along the shore that extents to its greater length and it’s a bit slippery as you enter the water but this does not bother me and many others, who prefer it for its uniqueness. In the past years, there was a famous beach bar there that attracted crowds of people and possibility for sport activities, concerts etc. Today, it has been purchased by a company that plan to build a hotel resort and nobody knows how the landscape will look like in the future. Currently there is a small beach bar on the beach and a canteen up the rock. In earlier years, the large open space was used as a camping area. Today, the area remains “unexploited” and therefore free to the public. Visit it before it ends up beyond recognition!

Useful Tips

The beach is easily accessible by car and there is ample parking space. On your way out to the main road, use extra caution because due to the downhill straight, the cars develop high speeds.

If you do not choose to take the road down to the beach, there’s a little canteen selling coffee and refreshments, two hundred meters further on the right where you can enjoy the panoramic view of the beach of Agios Ioannis to the north and the coastline of Sithonia that continues south to the New Marmara.

To the west of the coast, you can visit the island “Kastri”. It’s so close to the shore that from some points it is accessible even without having to swim.

“Kovios beach”- at 5 km

Kovios

It is one of the most beautiful beaches of Chalkidiki. The water is blue, not too deep and maintains a cool temperature most of the time. The sea remains usually without rippling even when windy. The fine and velvety sand is ideal for hours of sunbathing. The rocky coastline before the beach is ideal for snorkeling and amateur spear gun.

Useful Tips

The access to the beach is through a downhill rocky path. If you have disability problems or very young children, prefer the path of the hotel “Makednos” 500 meters further.

The sea is excellent and warm especially late in the afternoon. It then that you can enjoy the beautiful sunset of Sithonia.

The bay helps to keep the waters warm even in May-June or late September. The beach is free. To the south part of the bay, hotel “Makednos” offers beach chairs and umbrellas There is also a beach bar.

Spathies

It is a relatively unknown beach but offers a stunning combination of rocks, sea and pine trees. Located at the south of the beach of ‘Kalogria’ it consists of two bays. In the first bay, the coastline is mainly rocky and there is only a small sandy beach in the south eastern end. The second cove forms a larger beach with warm shallow waters.

Useful Tips

The small beach in “Spathies” is easily accessible by car. From “Kalogria” continue straight. “Spathies beach” is right next to the first. If you are driving on the main street of Nikiti-N. Marmara, turn right when you see the sign that says “Coast Spathies”.

In the small beach the parking space is limited. The access to the larger beach is difficult. In fact, you should leave your car farther away and walk, unless you drive a 4×4 car.

The waters are calm most of the day. The rocks are ideal for diving and exploring. The beach is only for swimming and sunbathing. There are no cafes, restaurants, canteens etc.

“Kalogria beach”

Here is another wonderful beach of Halkidiki, five kilometers far from Nikiti. The coast is long and famous for the velvety, white sand. A special feature of the beach is the small rocky island in the middle of the bay of “Kalogria”. It is easily accessible by car, while on the northern part it’s well organized with sun beds and a beach bar.

Useful Tips

The beach is free. You have to pay only if you want to use a sun bed, although there is plenty of space to setup your own equipment.

You can easily swim the distance to the island. The waters are relatively shallow.

There is an easy access by car. However, note down that the beach is very popular and so during the peak season or hours of the day you may not find space to park. So prefer evening hours or early morning visits, if you can.

In the southern part of the beach, the waters are shallower and, therefore, better for families with young children.

“Elia beach”

This is an area with a long coastline, very clear water and not widely known to the visitors. The beach is sandy, but narrow and at a lower level than the street. The pine trees are literally hanging above the beach, creating a dramatic feeling.

Useful Tips

There is an asphalted road along the beach starting at “Athena Palace Hotel” and as far as “Lagomandra beach”. But parking your car is difficult as there are many hotels and beach houses that have created private parking places along the coast.

The beach is mainly narrow. If you want more space, prefer the northern part of the beach just before “Athena Palace Hotel” and “Mikri Elia” just before “Lagomandra”.

The beach is at a lower level than the street. You can get down from paths and/or stairs that exist in several points.

The beach is not organized.

“Lagomandra”

A very beautiful beach, much closer to “Neos Marmaras” rather than “Nikiti”. A small grove of pines right next to the beach adds a special character to the beach. It is easily accessible by car and offers many facilities, awarded every year with a blue flag.

Useful Tips

The beach consists of two parts, separated by a small cape. The northern part is more organized with sun beds and umbrellas mostly owned by the nearby hotels. In the south part there are water sports facilities.

If the sun is bothering you, you can always and easily setup your equipment under the pines. The sea is right next door.

If you come from Nikiti, mind the road, as there are several sharp turns and cars turning or suddenly coming out of side streets.

“Trani Ammouda”

Trani Ammouda

 

On the other side of “Sithonia peninsula”, facing “Athos peninsula”, is one of the most enchanting beaches of Halkidiki, “Trani Ammouda” (awarded the blue flag of the European Union), which stretches for 2.5 km, with crystal clear turquoise waters you can have a magnificent experience on the sloping sandy beach. We can arrive there if, at the intersection outside Nikiti, we continue leftwards on the road to “Agios Nikolaos”. As soon as you reach the intersection to “Ormos Panagias”, turn left (turn 180 degrees) and continue on this road until you get to the beach. In fact there is a very long beach divided by a rock in two beaches. One better than the other. The first is organized with beach bars and games, but the second isn’t! It’s up to one’s preferences. To reach the second just drive up the hill, over the bar and down again. You can always walk to it, past the rock and the beach is all yours to enjoy the most beautiful blue/ turquoise waters ever.

If you’re there around lunch/dinner time eat at “Aristos” (without second thought), “Ormos Panagia” (Tel.: 2375031420, Mob.:6977252019 ) The tables are on the sand!

“Lagonissi”

About 5 km before you reach “Vourvourou”, drive past “Ormos Panagias” and once you reach the east part of “Sithonia” , after driving for approximately 1 km, don’t miss the first street to the left. Following this path, you will head northeast for 500 meters to meet an intersection. It is preferable to follow the third road (dirt road) to the right and at 400 meters you will see the beach “Lagonissi”. A blue lagoon! When we first got there we stood surprised at the sight of the beach and sea! It barely exceeds 400 meters in length, with clear turquoise waters, a very narrow at some points beach, with fine sand, 5-6 tall pines next to two small hotels that are built right on the beach. On the south-west side of the beach, a very small rocky peninsula, creates a very picturesque and unique sight. Unfortunately, here as well, the bulldozers came last year and we do not know what will be its fate!

Usually crowded, problem to park and at present unorganized.

 

Lagonissi

And a little further………

“Vourvourou”

Tristinika

Vacation settlement with total white sand, verdant rolling hills that reach the crystal clear waters and luxurious holiday villas! Following the road from “Ormos Panagias”, among the pines, the view is magnificent! The first thing you meet is “Livari”, a calm and shallow lagoon separated from the sea by a strip of land, surrounded by pine and a a group of little islands at short distance from the coast, perfect for taking a swim. Can be reached by renting a boat! Along ”Vourvourou” you will find many other hidden beaches and bays (“Ksifara”, “Karidi”, “Bara”, “Fava”), quiet even in summer! Although this is a very touristic area, it’s worth visiting it due to the luxurious “Ekies All Senses Resort”!

“Armenistis”

It is the most famous camping in Halkidiki, with fully organized facilities (tents, caravans, mobile homes, tavern, mini market, cinema, tennis beach volley, tennis, etc.), a famous and very popular beach bar, an organized sandy beach and crystal clear waters.Plus the various events organized! (Tel. 23750 91487, www.armenistis.com.gr)

Further south from “Armenistis”, the beaches that follow one another, compete in beauty! “Apella”, “Platanitsi”, “Kalamitsi”, ”Kriaritsi” and towards “Marmaras”, “Porto Koufo”, “Toroni”, “Tristinika” … and the town of “Marmaras”. Accommodation of all categories and campings to choose for your stay! Although mileage is enough (from Nikiti and back around 110), the round of the second “leg” offers unique landscapes, unforgettable images bound to the summer you spent in “Sithonia”.

Kavourotripes

Other Sights in Sithonia

The traditional village of Parthenon

The Hotel of Porto Carras

The castle and the church of Agios Athanasios in Toroni

The natural harbor of Porto Koufo

Sithonia Beaches

Nikiti, Lagomandra, Kastri, Agios Ioannis, Paradise, Neos Marmaras, Kalogria, Akti Koviou, Tristinika, Armenistis, Apella, Vourvourou, Kalamitsi, Platanitsi, Kriaritsi, Sykia, Sarti, Ormos Panagias, Lagonissi ……

There are many more beautiful beaches, campings etc. more distant from Nikiti. Sithonia from one end to the other, with the enchanting green landscapes, picturesque coves, small bays and sandy beaches, with crystal clear turquoise waters, is one of the most popular destinations of Chalkidiki. Enjoy!

Goumenissa – brass bands and vines

Goumenissa – brass bands and vines

  The day trip with “Prometheus club” was organized somewhat hastily and the rainy morning of November was not ideal for an excursion in nature. Nevertheless, we set off by bus, 20 people in all, with our first destination Goumenissa. So close and yet unknown yet.

   The town is situated in Central Macedonia (69 km. Northwest of Thessaloniki) at the foot of Mount Paiko (altitude 250 m.). The name “Goumenissa” had always automatically been bringing up images and sounds of the bands of bronze musical instruments. And the truth is that its name is synonymous to the bands and the wine making. The brass bands of Goumenissa are ever-present in the life of the city: from religious ceremonies to impromptu street parties, the brass band sound defines the town’s unique traditional lifestyle. There is always the chance to come upon some impromptu feast while walking in the district of St. George, where more than 200 folk musicians mainly live.

We were informed that the town has about 4,500 inhabitants and is famous, apart from the traditional brass instruments, for good wine (OPAP), “tsipouro” and its clear waters. The typical square with the big plane tree, as in many villages in the region, welcomes the guests, with a typical fountain in its center, built by the French soldiers and reminiscent of the times of the First World War, when the area was the centre of hard fighting. In the narrow streets of the old town where we walked, stand the buildings of pre-industrial era, the characteristic “koukoulospita” (houses where they grew silkworms) but also the impressive church and monastery of St. George. One hundred and eight (108) houses have been listed as preservable ,with few restoration samples, however. Fortunately, there have been some attempts, thanks to some of the inhabitants’ love for their land. Also known are the traditional workshops that manufacture barrels, folk instruments, saddles, and baskets, active preservants of handmade folk art and technique, rarely found in other parts of Greece! In our short stroll, we worship the church of “Virgin Mary” of Goumenissa and end up in a cafe in the square.

 fountain in its Center, built by the French soldiers and reminiscent of the times of the first world warThe appointment with the winemaker Mr. Aidarini an hour later, boosts our mood. Being an excellent tour guide himself, he explains everything about the tradition of viticulture in the region, the process until the bottling and aging of wine and leads us to the cellar with the big oak barrels. He treats us local wine in the beautiful building of the winery and informs us about the “roads of wine”: “In recent years, the old art of wine making, seems to have found its way. Thus, the known “xinomavro” wine, but also a local variety known as “Negoska” in proportion four to one, give the famous wine VQPRD “Goumenissa”. The vineyards of Goumenissa falls on “Wine Routes”, a civil company, non-profit organization created by the Wine Producers Association of the Vineyards of Macedonia. The integrated in the network wineries of the region are mostly in Goumenissa: “Domaine Aidarini”, tel. 23430-42939, “Boutari Winery”, tel. 23430-41989, “Tatsis Estate”, tel. 23430-41053, ‘Hatzivariti winery “tel . 23430-41236 and “Domaine Ligas” just before Giannitsa, tel. 23820-24421, as well as “Domain Eutychides Titos” tel / fax 2310-273620 Goumenissa ” .

The town, however, has another asset, as we said. It has kept alive through the years its own musical identity. Famous throughout Greece and abroad, by participating in various festivals in the world, its bands of brass instruments, with at least three hundred folk musicians are now widely known as “The Bronze of Goumenissa”. The price is a bit overwhelming for anyone who wants to enjoy them live. At least 150 euro an hour. Maybe if you’re in the mood after the wine / tsipouro the price will not seem high!

We were told that the Folk Museum is worth visiting. It has recently opened in the neighboring village of Europe, since the one of Goumenissa is underactive.

Domaine AidariniAt the exit road of the city towards “Grivas” village you pass by a traditional water mill owned by Giapatzi family. It was built in the late 18th century and is a typical folkloric element in the region. The watermill has been working from 1860 to 1970 for the production of flour, was rebuilt in 2008 and is open to visitors every Wednesday from 9 am to 2 pm and weekends from 10 am to 7 pm.

We continued to the monastery of St. Raphael taking the road to Grivas- Kastaneri. We drove up a narrow winding road up to the monastery. In fact, while the monastery, in a nice location, with great views of the valley, it is still half-built. We lit our candles, bought a few chestnuts an drove downhill to the tavern. Or maybe we should say the hotel that would host us for lunch. Few options for large groups like ours. Hotel “Parifew” in Griva, tel. 2343042615, 6973881961 (Stathis) with nice lamb on the spit as the company assured.

We heard good things about “Kastaneri”, a village at a higher altitude near by but unfortunately the road was difficult for the bus and we decided not to go. But we can share the information we have! It’s not long since they have ended with the harvesting of chestnuts. Moreover, they have been organizing for many years the festival “Chestnut, wine, cheese” in the region! So just 10 km. northwest of Goumenissa, at the slopes of Mount Paiko, Kastaneri, is a picturesque mountain village renowned for its chestnuts and its wonderful views across Amphaxitis and the plain of Thessaloniki. The village is built at an altitude of 750-800 meters. Its inhabitants are locals Macedonians and has a cultural club named “Paiko” The inhabitants of the village, and especially the Dogiama family, played a big role in the Macedonian Struggle, fighting the Bulgarians in the town of Goumenissa, which then acted in the region.tasting wines As a token of gratitude, the Goumenissa residents gave the name of George (Gonou) Dogiama the old camp of Goumenissa. Most residents leave the village during the winter, while in summer it serves as a resort.

Also on the way to the village Karpi, at a short distance from Goumenissa, you will find the physical location “Two Rivers”, with running flowing waters and a dense forest.
Authentic villages, dense forests of chestnut, beech and oak trees, green meadows, emerald ponds and wonderful waterfalls await to be discovered by car or on foot in the untrodden mountain tracks. That we will return to certify in spring.
Information gathered for the region
traditional house(Source: http://www.tanea.gr) Leaving the village Kastaneri, towards the “Megala Livadia” after 5 km. distance you come to the Environmental Information Centre of Paiko (visits by prior arrangement with the Forestry Cervice of Goumenissas tel. 41 207 23430). Just 1.3 km. below, in Primatari point, you will find a wooden observatory with spectacular views of the gorge. At this point, a beautiful hiking trail next to the stream of Stravopotamou starts. Soon the landscape is transformed. The dense forests give way to a bare plateau surrounded by smooth tops. Here, on the highest plateau of Paiko at 1,200 m. , the “Megala Livadia ”lay before you, which although is a Vlach village it is not famous for its dairy products, rather than for the exceptional quality of the potatoes. The village was built in 1769, by Vlach-speaking Greeks from Moschopolis, after the destruction of their city. The settlement grew into one of the largest in Central Macedonia in the early 20th century and was one of the bastions of Hellenism in the Macedonian Struggle, until torched and completely destroyed in 1944 by the Germans. Starting from “Megala Livadia” and heading towards “Archangelos”, get ready to enjoy one of the best asphalt tracks in the area. Just 700 m. far from the village, you will be facing a beautiful sight: on the right of the road, surrounded by wooded hillsides and potato fields, a small lake emerges, while in front of you stands the impressive mountain of “Tzena”. You can leave your car in the small space provided adjacent the asphalt, to admire the landscape and then continue among the green fields, the gentle slopes and rugged peaks of the neighboring mountains.

Aidarini winery

TIPS
What to eat?

In “Goumenissa” : tavern “To tzaki” on “Ethnikis Antistaseos” street, Tel .: 23430/41020 Open: All year round, daily, lunch and dinner (weekdays noon :call first), tavern “George” at the square .
In the village “Kastaneri”: “Argalios” (very good tavern)and “Platia” (tel. 2343023946/6946058280 Giannis Maris)) with local specialties: fried pork, local sausage, pork etc. (During the chestnuts harvesting the tavern is closed). The hotel’s restaurant “Moschopolis” at “Megala Livadia”. For coffee, drinks and “tsipouromezedes” go to the “Casa di lemnou.”
Shopping: In the village “Griva” there is a cottage industry “The Goumenissa” where you can buy jam, frumenty, noodles, and mountain herbs, tel. 23430-43455. Goumenissa – Kastaneri 12 km. (Asphalt)
The combination of landscape, wine, Macedonian cuisine and hospitality make Goumenissa a rising destination for alternative, naturalist getaways. We will, however, return here to enjoy the nuances of deciduous trees of Paiko in autumn and spring and also walk in the lush mountain forests.

Brass bands of Goumenissa: TEL. CONTACT 6979450334 & 6974986553    Asartzis Sakis 6976678255 (cornet)

the entrance of Aidarini winery