A journey into history in the Valley of the Temples – Agrigento, Sicily

A journey into history in the Valley of the Temples – Agrigento, Sicily

We arrived in Acragantas (its Greek name), Agrigento (a super musical name!), crossing the island from north (Palermo) to south, having the opportunity to get to know the inland with its endless fields of grain. Countless bales of straw scattered over vast expanses. A very artistic sight! Our visit had the sole purpose of touring the archaeological site, the “Archaeological Park of the Valley of the Temples”. We left the modern city for another visit!

So let’s meet Acragantas, in southern Sicily, one of the most brilliant cities of Magna Grecia. It was founded in 582 BC by colonists from Gela. The “most beautiful city of mortals”, as the poet Pindar called it, was a rich city with great power, home to artists, philosophers and important men of history. So, the number one reason of your visit is the “Valley of the Temples” (La Valle dei Templi). You will be impressed! Take note on the the temperatures and if it’s too hot, make sure you are properly equipped! You will need considerable time to explore the vast area amidst the olive and almond trees, between the sea and the modern city of Agrigento. Here people really struggled to save the large number of surviving temples. You will see memorial plaques with the names of those who fought for it. Since 1997 it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The 1,300-hectare archaeological site includes 10 Doric temples, 3 sanctuaries, a necropolis, hydraulic works, fortifications …… and many more. What do we suggest you do?

Start from the top of the archaeological site and go down the hill. First, stop at the Temple of Hera Lacinia (Tempio di Hera Lacinia), standing at an impressive location, at the top of the hill, with 24 surviving columns and obvious traces of the fire of 406 BC, when it was destroyed by the Carthaginians. Further down, with the ruins of the Greek Walls (Mura Greche) on your left, walk along the Via Sacra to the famous Temple of Concordia (Tempio della Concordia), one of the best preserved in the world. It was adopted as the logo for the UNESCO emblem. Its peristyle consists of 34 columns, on a base with 4 steps instead of the 3 that the temples in Greece had. Continue in front of the Villa Aurea to the Temple of Hercules (Tempio di Ercole), the oldest of all (6th century BC) with 8 of the 38!!! original columns standing today. To the east of the temple you can see the ruins of a large altar. In Sicily, Hercules was worshipped as a god and not as a demigod!

Enter the area of the Temple of Olympian Zeus (Tempio di Zeus Olimpico) (5th century). It was the largest in the entire West (113x56m). On its façade, instead of columns, stood Telamons, naked giants 7.60 meters high, who like Atlases held the roof on their shoulders. One of them in life size was in the space in front of us standing upright so that we could get a sense of its enormous size.

In a large area below is the complex of sanctuaries of the Chthonian Deities (Demeter and Persephone) and within it the Temple of the Dioscuri (Tempio dei Dioscuri) with its 4 remaining columns (it has become a symbol of the city).

You need two hours for this tour. However, there’s much more to see at the archaeological park on the side below the hill with the temples. It is the ancient city of Akragantas, with the Agora and the Vouleuterion, the Regional Archaeological Museum, the Necropolis and temples outside the walls, but also the Garden of Kolymbetra.

Organize yourself according to the time you have to spend and enjoy your experience on an immersive journey through history!

¬ There are 2 entrances. Porta V (east) and Porta Giunone (west) with more parking spaces. We started from there! In between them there a 2 km. distance.

¬ The best time is early in the morning. Fewer people, less heat. Minimal shade in the area!

¬ The ticket costs €17 (general admission). We got in for free with a Greek free-entry teacher ID!

¬ See here a useful digital map of the area as well as updated information about tickets and opening hours of the area:

https://www.lavalledeitempli.it/en/itineraries/temples-valley/archaeological-itinerary/

¬ Valley of the Temples Archaeological and Landscape Park itinerary

https://www.visitsicily.info/en/itinerario/landscape-and-archaeological-park-of-the-valley-of-the-temples/

 

https://www.orangesmile.com/travelguide/agrigento/high-resolution-maps.htm

A day in Palermo!

A day in Palermo!

Porta NuovaIn the largest port of Sicily, you will feel at first sight the rich history, the authenticity of the place with the impressive architectural buildings that combine unique architectural motifs of different eras! Quite a few conquerors passed through this land!

Start the tour by walking through Porta Nuova, a 15th-century gate with impressive sculptures, a monument to the victory against the Tunisians. It is located next to the Palace of the Normans (Palazzo dei Normanni) which you will see later, making a stop in the beautiful park in front of it. An Arab building of the 9th century, characteristic of the cultural diversity of Sicily that was expanded and decorated by the Normans in the later years. Byzantines and Spaniards also overran the area. Visit the Capella Palatina chapel for the unique Byzantine mosaics.

 

Palace of the Normans

Head to the Palermo Cathedral (Cattedrale di Palermo), another example of a mix of architectural styles. What about Gothic, Norman, Byzantine and Arabic influences? You will discover them in this magnificent building outside and inside. Take some time to explore all its corners, see the unique mosaics, wood carvings, royal tombs and the underground crypt with the sarcophagi. Don’t miss the heliometer on the floor! Before leaving, “climb” to the roof for a panoramic view of Palermo!

Palermo Cathedral

Next, make your way to Quattro Canti (Piazza Vigliena), the landmark square in the heart of Palermo’s historic center. An excellent example of Baroque architecture, the “Four Corners” as its name suggests, are perfectly symmetrical, defining the corners of four ancient districts at the intersection of two main streets. The rich symbolism in its design makes it unique. Each of the four facades is divided into four levels, each with its own representation of the cultural and religious life of Palermo. At each base, you can see one of the four seasons symbolizing the cyclical nature of life, as well as a figure for each element of nature (earth, water, fire and air). On the middle tier, sit each of the four Spanish kings who ruled Palermo during the 17th century and on the upper tier the 4 female patron saints of the four historic districts of Palermo. Above them all, the royal coats of arms! We were staring up and around for a while… speechless!

the "Four Corners"

Next stop at the Teatro Massimo square, one of the largest opera houses in Europe. A meeting point for many, the impressive building with its imposing size is known for the high-level performances it hosts. If you’re interested, you can also visit its interior or possibly watch a performance. Horse carriages are waiting in the square for a stroll around the city in a different style.

Teatro Massimo square, one of the largest opera houses in Europe

That’s all fine but you will also find Sicilian cuisine at its best in Palermo. Great choices of street food like “arancini” and “cannoli” and many more as well as traditional dishes like “pasta alla norma” with tomato sauce, eggplant, basil and ricotta or an authentic “caponata”. The pasta here (be careful not to ask for macaroni as we Greeks refer to all kinds of pasta – it will be remarked!) is often handmade and in any case cooked al dente). Pizza will be super wherever you eat it, as well as seafood dishes.

There is still much more to see and do depending on your interests. Do some exploring for the joy of being a traveler!

TIPS

  • Many restaurants are usually closed for siesta (usually 3:00 PM-6:00 PM)! This is an issue. And some attractions too! So, see that you plan your schedule and check the hours!
  • Most locals don’t speak English. However, you will surely find a way to communicate. Everyone is very willing and helpful!
  • All the products of the land (vegetables, citrus fruits, etc.) are extra tasty here since they are grown in the fertile volcanic soils of the island.
Alberobello – the city of trulli

Alberobello – the city of trulli

AlberobelloIn the city of trulli, Alberobello, a fairytale open-air museum and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996, you will fill your photographic memory! Approximately 1,500 round houses with conical roofs, in gray and white, compose a unique setting. The history making your tour even more interesting. They are the Trulli, stone dwellings, remarkable examples of dry-stone construction, unique in the Puglia region!

It is said that the inhabitants of the region, in the mid-15th century, in order to avoid a harsh law of the kingdom of Naples that taxed constructions with binder material, chose to build these houses like beehives, with limestone slabs and without any connection between them, while on the roofs they placed thinner slabs in circular rings. This way they could easily dismantle them when the tax collectors came and reassemble them when they left! 

Alberobello – the city of trulli

On the roofs you will see painted symbols in white that bring luck or protect against the evil eye. In the shops you will buy local products and souvenirs, you will taste the focaccia delicacies at the square, in the narrow streets you will see Trullo Siamese and the Trullo Sovrano (a rare example of a two-storey building) which operates as a museum and at the Vista Panoramica de Trulli point (next to the church of Santa Lucia, as you reach the square on the upper right) you will admire the panoramic view. Stroll around seeking for the perfect photo! Quite challenging!!!

Alberobello trulli

  • At the base of each roof there was a specific stone that if you pulled it out, the house would be dismantled! They say that within half an hour the whole village could be demolished.
  • Alberobello means “beautiful tree”. The area was overgrown with oak trees and generally very forested.
  • You can feel the unique experience of staying in a dome, since most domes are used as tourist accommodations and shops rather than for residences.
  • We ate very delicious focaccia in various versions at Focacceria La Lira (https://www.instagram.com/lalirafocacceria/ ) at the square!
Alberobello trulli painted symbols in white that bring luck or protect against the evil eye

All information about events and other updated information here: https://www.alberobello.com/en